Meet the chef: Liam McKay at Chef’s Table in Chester

Working in the hospitality industry for 27 years and having gained his first head chef position more than 20 years ago at the equally renowned Chester steakhouse, Upstairs at The Grill, Liam has been fortunate to learn under a lot of different chefs throughout his career and gain classic cooking skills from the very best. Here, he shares his food loves.

Tell us a little about Chef’s Table.

Chef’s Table began when myself and my old business partner, who owned a pub at the time, decided we wanted to open a venue that wasn’t tied to a brewery. We were on the hunt for a small restaurant location and happened to pass an old hairdresser on Music Hall Passage and thought, why not open it here.

Initially, we intended for the venue to be an industry hangout that sold cookbooks and offered both a breakfast and á la carte menu. We worked with two guys called Natural Veg Men who started an organic field in Chester and would deliver fresh boxes of produce everyday which was an immediate hit with guests. From there, we evolved into a micro-seasonal restaurant and haven’t looked back.

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Since then, we’ve partnered with Daresbury farm, Growing @ Field 28, to focus on minimising food waste and continue planning our menus based on the seasonal yield. Now, having relocated to Pepper Street and opened our sister venue, twenty eight, just next-door – it couldn’t be a more exciting time for us.

First dish you learned to cook?

Microwaving a vegetable balti with a naan bread. This was one of my first introductions to spices and the flavours changed my life. I also remember making an Espagnole Sauce which I’ve not recreated throughout my entire professional career, but I think about making it pretty much every day.

Most vivid childhood food memory?

I once stuck a peanut up my nose on Christmas Eve and had to get it removed on Christmas Day at Barnsley hospital. To preface, my Nan offered me some peanuts (which I didn’t like), so not to be rude I took one and hid it up my nose. Needless to say, things have evolved since.

Most memorable meal out?

I’ve been to some amazing restaurants both in the UK and abroad. One that stands out is The Vineyard in Stockcross by John Campbell. It was a 2-Star restaurant at the time, and it was the first time I’d been to somewhere of that calibre, so it really inspired and stuck with me.

Favourite ingredient?

There are loads of different ones, dependent on the season. One of my favourite simple ingredients is finishing dishes with a squeeze of lemon.

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Your go-to snack?

With Tesco being across the street from the restaurant, it would have to be a meal deal. It remains a constant in my life and is even a cheeky source of inspiration for our menus. I’d eaten so many katsu sandwiches at one point, I started incorporating katsu into the menu.

What is the flavour of the moment in your kitchen?

Minus 8 Vinegar. It’s been a staple for years as it adds sweetness and acidity to so many dishes. It’s also excellent with tomatoes from Field 28.

What's your guilty food pleasure?

Putting Lao Gan Ma on anything I see. Anything from cheese on toast to dishes in the restaurant, it works with anything.

Your Cheshire food and drink heroes?

There is a camaraderie amongst independent business owners in Chester. Jason and Neil at BarLounge and Upstairs at The Grill, I’ve worked with them for many years, and they’ve taught me a lot of things in different ways. Joe and Ben at Porta and Nev at Paysan who fly under the radar have operated solid businesses for many years and are all around great guys.

Great independent business owners and friends are also Valentina and Fabrizio from Da Noi and Chris from Covino. I also have to throw Gary Usher in for his sheer grit and determination to keep building and pushing his restaurants forward.

Suppliers you love?

Our trusty partner, Field 28. They are such a huge part of the business and what we do. We also worked with several local suppliers in our early days who really helped us out. Mark at Francis Thomas has been around for years and always helps us when we are in a pinch. Key suppliers also include That Beer Place, The Cheese Shop and Dave Joinson Quality Meats.

A hospitality industry person who inspires?

There are many different sources of inspiration that you take things from throughout your career, but as an overarching point, it’s anyone who is working in the industry. From suppliers to fellow independent restaurant owners, they’re all going through the same problems in terms of industry hardships but still getting up in the morning despite the difficulties and driving their businesses forward.

A place you love to eat?

There are loads of great restaurants in Chester I would love to eat at more such as Arkle and country pubs like Fox & Barrel. Most of my meals out now are days with the family until my daughters get a bit older. My family love to eat at Mowgli, Death by Tacos and casual spots like Chester Market where we can bring our dog. Probably a bit of shameless self-promotion here, but I’ve been having lunch in twenty eight a lot lately and I have to give credit to head chef, Jay Tanner, as he’s putting out some great food that I wish I could take credit for.

A career highlight?

Winning Chef of the Year this month at the Cheshire Life Food & Drink Awards has been a big one for me, especially as we celebrate our 10th anniversary this year. I don’t tend to put myself forward for things like that, but I have an encouraging team behind me and it’s great to have been recognised.

Roast grouse with Field 28 celeriac fingers, leaves and beetroot, pickled blackberry, game jus. (Image: Caitlin Sullivan)

If you were a guest visiting Chef’s Table, what would you order?

We change the menu every few weeks so it’s always different, but the Chocolate Fondant has been on for 10 years and I can’t take our haggis fritters off the menu as I get too many complaints when I do. From our current menu however, I would have to pick the scallop starter and wagyu neck for my main course.

You’re hosting a fantasy dinner party, who would you invite and what would you cook for them?

Getting all the family and friends together, past and present, on a big holiday and having everyone in the kitchen together cooking and enjoying each other’s company. The food would be a simple affair - good breads, balsamic and oil, slow cooked lamb.

What's next?

Trying to improve what we do and go from strength to strength between both Chef’s Table and twenty eight. I want the venues to be a place people want to work, so we plan to continue building and improving the team, stay busy and keep things new and exciting.

My favourite dish

Roast grouse with Field 28 celeriac fingers, leaves and beetroot, pickled blackberry, game jus. A prime example of great cuts of meat paired with fresh British heritage veg.