The Hart of Hartford's Sunday lunch is a bit of a revelation

They're tricky to pull off over a long restaurant service. Roasties don’t stay crisp out of the oven for long, and beef, done to a turn, can’t be kept both warm and pink forever.

But there's a trade-off to be had. Even demanding consumers seem willing to concede a bit in terms of quality. They’re just delighted not to spend five or six hours of their precious weekend chained to their stoves.

Yet now and again, some diligent chef somewhere really nails it. There is no compromise. And when this happens, word spreads, and quickly. 

The Hart of Hartford, on School Lane, is one such place.

Described modestly by Google listings as a café, think laid-back European-style all-day eatery, not greasy spoon. Think trailing devil’s ivy suspended from the ceiling in jute macramé pots, pale wood, bare light bulbs - the vintage orange kind. Cosy, but modern and airy.

Like its food, the Hart's interior is smart, fresh, and relaxed (Image: Newsquest) Hearing favourable mutterings from respected quarters, I decided to head there last Sunday, braving 25 country miles through sheets of freezing slantwise rain.

The front-of-house staff know exactly what they're about. Professional yet very friendly, our waitress guided us to a spacious table and our drinks were with us in what seemed like less than a minute. 

All the starter options (£8.50 to £11) have a sociable, nibbly feel, including honey and truffle glazed ‘popcorn halloumi’, which my guest chose, and roasted garlic, jalapeño, lemon and thyme hummus with paprika, herb oil, pine nuts, and crusty bread. 

Roasted garlic, jalapeño, lemon and thyme hummus with paprika, herb oil, pine nuts, and crusty bread (Image: Newsquest) For the main event (£16 to £18), roasted topside of beef for him, shredded lamb (shoulder, I think) for me.

The utter simplicity of the popcorn halloumi stopped my in my tracks. They came in a pile, with nothing else. But they were so beautifully made (hot, crisp, and yummy), any garnish would have been instantly sidelined. It was like the chef was saying, ‘trust me, you’ll like these’. We loved them.  

Trust me - when something's this good, you don't need fiddly garnishes (Image: Newsquest) The well-made hummus was a delight too. I’m a bit of a stick-in-the-mud when it comes to classics (don’t mess with perfection) but added interest came from the one or two surprising new flavours. The toasted bread for scooping was from a thoughtfully chosen loaf. It was warm, crisp, and tasty, and came in exactly the right quantity.

As for the main event, the roast itself, well, there is no compromise here. Served chef-style in an elegant heap, once you start to dismantle it, it fills the plate.

'When a chef takes the time to turn a relatively unglamorous cut into something so delicious, you know you’re in safe hands' (Image: Newsquest) Roasted topside of beef, like a rump steak, is a cut for those in the know. While it can be a bit hit and miss, when it’s good, that combination of bite and well-developed flavour means it’s a proper treat. The Hart’s is a definite hit.

The shredded lamb, pulled slow-roasted shoulder I believe, served moistened its own gravy, was meltingly soft and absolutely packed with flavour. When a chef takes the time to turn a relatively unglamorous cut into something so delicious, you know he's never going to be out of work.

Sticky toffee pudding is a bold choice if you want to remain awake for the Antique's Roadshow, but the lightness of this one means you stay just on the right side of stuffed (Image: Newsquest) Veggies included crisp and tasty roast potatoes, roasted parsnips and carrots, savoy cabbage, and mash. But wait until you taste this mash! Rich and buttery, it somehow manages to impart a creaminess to everything it touches. It is very, very special. 

Jugs of extra hot gravy for each diner - beef for the beef, lamb for the lamb - are a typically thoughtful touch.

Sticky toffee pudding came highly recommended by our waitress. The lightness of the sponge was a welcome surprise, and the toffee sauce, while sweet, was not cloying. It is the ideal way to seriously indulge while staying just the right side of stuffed.

Coffee, from the Jaunty Goat roastery in Chester, was top notch, and it's worth mention the wine list, which is small but carefully compiled, and very reasonably priced. Medium glasses start at £6.80, and go up to £9.20.  

Would I change anything about Sunday lunch at the Hart? Almost nothing. In the spirit of constructive criticism, personally, I like to see a soup among the starters for Sunday lunch, especially in winter. Soup, remember, doesn't have to be naff. (You heard it here first.)  

Will I be making the 25-mile journey again? Yes, very soon, before the word gets out.